Day 3 in Yushima
A third evening in Yushima and the far side of Ueno, where the bars keep their own hours and the rooms are small. This is the latest of the three nights, and the one with the most rules attached — read the notes before you set out.
Before you go: two of these bars will not let everyone in
The TRAD and The Auditorium both allow smoking throughout, and both refuse entry to anyone aged 20 or under as a result. Japanese law keeps under-20s out of smoking areas whether or not they smoke. If you are travelling with children or would rather not sit in smoke, take Day 2 instead.
18:00 — Dinner first
Nothing on this route serves a full meal, so eat before you start. Shutei Juraku is a minute from the Shinobazu Exit, seats a hundred, and is non-smoking indoors. Eitaro Sushi by Shinobazu Pond serves until 22:00 with last orders at 21:30, takes cards at dinner, and wants a reservation.
19:30 — The Auditorium
Thirty seconds from the Iriya Exit, twenty-six seats with ten of them along a single slab of counter. No seat charge and no service charge.
- Open 17:00–23:00 on weekdays, last orders 22:30.
- Friday, Saturday and Sunday hours vary — the official site says to check ahead.
- Smoking throughout; no entry for anyone 20 or under.
21:00 — The TRAD, Yushima
A whisky bar on the ground floor in Yushima, open 18:00–23:30 and until midnight on Friday and Saturday, with last orders at 23:00.
- A charge of ¥1,200 per person covers a small dish, service and the seat.
- A private room costs ¥2,000 more for the group; the table side seats up to six.
- Smoking throughout; no entry for anyone 20 or under.
23:30 — Still going
Two places run to 4:30 in the morning: Bar LUKE and Chianti PoP, with more than 190 bottles between them. LUKE closes on Sundays and Chianti PoP on Tuesdays, so check which one you are heading for.
Sake Bar Ueno Shōjyō pours until 2:00, counter only, last entry at midnight. Two warnings from the bar itself: it will not seat a party where nobody is drinking, and the stairs up are steep with no help available from the staff.
Getting back
The last trains have gone by the time most of this ends. Torikizoku serves until 5:00 with every item at ¥410, and Ramen Kamo to Negi is open all night — cash only.
Starting over? Day 1 walks the park and Ameyoko.
Every area in this guide
Ueno · Asakusa · Shibuya · Shinjuku · Roppongi · Ginza · Tsukiji · Tsukishima